Miniature Chusan Palm Trachycarpus wagnerianus
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Seedlings started 4 years ago!
A wonderful palm for outdoor pot cultivation that can be moved into the garage in November or December.
In a protected location, this windmill palm is considered to be winter hardy to USDA Zone 7. It is not reliably winter hardy in the St. Louis area where MO it may not survive harsh winters. It is typically grown in organically rich, moderately fertile, evenly moist but well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Best performance is in part shade. Site in protected locations that are sheltered from winter winds. Mature plants will usually survive 10 degree F. temperatures in winter (sometime colder). Of the arborescent (trunked) palms, windmill palm has the best winter hardiness. Of the non-arborescent (trunkless) palms, Rhapidophyllum hystrix and Sabal minor have slightly better winter hardiness. Plant crown may need protection (e.g. plastic sheet) when temperatures head toward single digits. Mulch around the base of the plant in winter. Plants may be propagated by seed, but male and female plants are required for seed production to occur.
Noteworthy Characteristics
Trachycarpus fortunei, commonly called windmill palm, is native to subtropical and temperate mountain forests of China where it typically grows to 20-40’ (sometimes to 60’) tall with a solitary trunk densely covered with hair-like fibers from old leaf sheaths. From the top of the trunk, large palmate fan-shaped dark green leaves (to 3’ wide) push outward in all directions on 2-3’ long petioles in a form purportedly resembling a windmill. Leaves are segmented about half way, with the segment tips often drooping. In cultivation in cold winter areas of USDA Zones 6-7, windmill palm will typically grow at most to 8-10’ tall. For a palm, it has excellent winter hardiness. Attractive yellowish flowers in drooping panicles (to 2’ long) bloom in summer. Female flowers (plants are dioecious) give way to dark blue drupes.
Mature size 4 m and over, but after a very long time (over 30 years).
Sun or part-shade exposure. Its foliage is looser in the shade and less attractive.
Any soil. Rich and fresh is best.
Hates... going without watering for weeks on end. It can withstand it for quite a long time (three weeks or more if temperatures are cool), but it will inevitably grit its teeth.
The trick is to top it up with mature compost and surround the base of the stipe with stones or tiles, as you would for a clematis, to keep it cool.